Part of Doctober.
“It was the unrideable wave and we rode it.” This new doc from Rory Kennedy (LAST DAYS IN VIETNAM) captures the remarkable and unconventional life of legendary big wave surfer Laird Hamilton. Sweeping cinematography positions us in the lineup with a master playing the sea. Laird’s incredible story began in 1960s Hawaii. Finding solace from an abusive home, he rebelled and funneled his energy into big wave Pipeline surfing, awakening a natural talent. More than an athlete with Hollywood good looks, Hamilton proved himself a true innovator, pushing conventions to the extreme and reinventing surfing throughout his career. A pioneer in both tow-in surfing and foil boarding, he distinguished himself from surfing legends of the time who wanted to maintain the purity of the sport. Mixing evocative, unseen archival footage with intimate access into Laird’s current adventures, distinguished filmmaker Rory Kennedy celebrates Hamilton’s lifelong desire to charge new frontiers and his intense commitment to conquering the next wave at all costs.
“Rip-roaring… An extreme-sports film that's also a laser-focused biographical study of a crazy man lacking a functioning fear mechanism.” —David Rooney, Hollywood Reporter
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